I knew there would be a lot of response to this shoulder business, and it’s really hard to put all this in one post.
But here are some common issues that might cause you frustration when you’re designing and fitting this part of the bod. As a matter of fact RTW has come out with some new shapes rather than the just standard triangle, inverted triangle, rectangle, hourglass, diamond and rounded.
The place where there’s trouble is when the shoulders are small and the bust, waist and hips are larger than the shoulders. The whole idea about shoulders and making them work for you, is to make sure that not only there is a fit, but also that your shoulders are in proportion to the rest of the body.
The eye naturally wants to travel from shoulders (broad or wide) to waist (in) back out to the hips. This is that natural line that we all want and are looking for.
But if your shoulders are thinner than your waist or at best the same from the straight view, then you need to make some other adjustments.
How do you tell how much? You will need a croquis (that’ in Monday’s post), and this will help a lot. These are the diagrams I’m using above – they are all croquis.
So here we have the classic small shoulder in A. I’ve corrected it in B. What I did was bring out the shoulders just a bit to balance the hips. You don’t need to make this exactly the same width as the hips, but as close as you can get makes this much more pleasing to the eye. A croquis helps you determine just how much or how little you have to make this transition.
Be sure when you do this, you keep the under arm, and side bust area clean – that means fitted, and maybe more than one side bust dart. It may be that a princess line may be the best solution here.
OK – in this illustration you can see (left) how much the line from the shoulder to hip extends out (at the hip) this is the cause of all the problems. In the right, that line is straight and look how much more pleasing this looks.
There’s just one more adjustment we can make here to make this look just a little better. Notice at the waist how the shape comes out dramatically at the waist – in what the kids call a “muffin top” look. Let’s deal with that this way.
You can see the dramatic difference here in the waist. Yes the waist on the left looks thinner, but look how much smoother the dress on the right looks. It’s worth it to smooth this line out.
For some fashion notes. This technique is particularly effective these days as higher waists are in, and so are broader shoulders. Not the shoulders of Alexis Carrington.
Now, I’m not talking about this sort of extended shoulder, but modified, this can be a very effective tool.
I’ve done this numerous times with my “grande dames” and they all look very nice, and very well put together. In case you think this can’t be done….here are some folks who have this type of figure that look very good, and there’s no reason why we can’t learn from what the designers are doing for them.
This is a great photo. The Queen looks like the Queen. Kate’s mother looks like an older Kate, and Camilla, the horsey Camilla Parker Bowles that we all knew and loved is NOT a horsey woman in this photo. What happened? The dress made her look absolutely fabulous.
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