This is an interesting site that I enjoy perusing for news in the fashion business. And this morning, this shows up (in my news feed) and quite frankly I’m chuckling a little.
This is all about how to get a better fit in RTW – it’s like trying to plant a lush tropical plant in the Mojave Desert; it’s like trying to fit every nuance of everyone’s body with one interview, questionnaire or other means of diving information. It really can not happen. The only way to do this is through personal fitting (which of course we sewists have such a huge heads up on!)
When I first started my design company, about 30 years ago, those puff sleeves were just making their debut…..
NO ONE did puffy big shoulders and sleeves better than Dynasty! But this was the rage.
What made is so fabulous for me, was that I entered into the market with a garment that was very chic – the latest style, and as wild and radical as you could possibly imagine – all done right on the spot (well in about 6 weeks) for a ball or gala event without having to endure shopping and settling for something that was completely different than what you wanted.
To be honest, it wasn’t all that hard to break into the market. What was hard, was that at the time in my part of the country we were going through a devastating depressive economic market (oil – the mainstay of our economy – went from $30/barrel to $8/barrel in about 6 months and there seemed no relief in sight – there was finally, but it took about 10 years to recover.) This was the economic environment at the time. What saved me was that I could design for my clients whim at the very red-hot moment the wanted the gown.
I do the same thing today – as much as puffy sleeves were the hot fashion then, non-strapless is now, and I’m the leader in that while all the stores have their strapless styles and are busy trying to get rid of it so they can get more non-strapless in their stores.
This is the same thing that happens with fitting. RTW, really works hard at making custom fitting work, but it’s really hard, without all the intricate working of custom fitting – they just can’t do it.
Every 6 to 18 months a new technique, system or program comes out to solve the problem, and then it’s forgotten. With such pressure on price points, I really don’t see it changing much.
That’s why we sewist really have it so spoiled and why it’s really worth designing and assembling your own garments. Not only do you end up with the look you want, but the fit you need.
And durability – well, that’s a whole other subject!
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