The Savvy Sage of Sewing Stimulation

Yes….still more on pants….

I promise this is the last, but this example is so glaring I can’t pass it up.

Lest you think plus-sized women can’t be fitted well in pants, here are some classic examples of how pants are supposed to fit:

She’s walking so the wrinkles on her right side are normal.

Again Clinton’s weight is shifted so wrinkles on her right side are normal, and Merkel’s front crush is normal as well.

I particularly like this “riding jacket” look on Merkel that gives her an elongated look.

So now in all those examples – here is what makes them all look so fabulous:

  1. They are seated well (or else they couldn’t move around, sit down, stand up, bend over and have them remain in the same place),
  2. They hang straight – they are not tilted one side or another or to front and back,
  3. They are not splayed or bowed legs,
  4. They have a slight crush or break in the front crease in front.

All of this while they are standing on both feet, weight distributed evening between the hips with feet about shoulder distance apart.  If they are shifted with weight on one hip (see directly above), then there will be wrinkles, but while they are straight up, weight evenly distributed, then the pants hang as described above.

Additionally, they are comfortable for these ladies.  They have to be able to get in and out of cars, sit at meetings, then stand up and make presentations, all the while looking nice so they can be photographed and looking nice.  This all requires an amazing fit, that does not involve stretching a fabric that is two sizes too small over the body.

 

For a further example…..here is a guy that is the antithesis of svelte.  Yet he has to look professional, be able to move around, and sit and stand and then get up to make a speech all the while projecting a leadership roll, which means he can’t be the latest fad or certainly nothing stretchy – or talk about visual pollution – on this guy, stretch is not an option! (and we don’t want it to be).

At the same time he has to wear something adult and mature.  That  is a woven fabric, but notice something here.  The way these pants hang on this man: (not the young one!)

Notice how when Christie is standing with weight on both legs and  feet about shoulder distance apart, that the pants hang perfectly from the widest part of his body in a straight line all the way to the hem of the pants.

christie1

Now the full break or crush in the front pants crease, causing the wrinkles in the lower part are purposeful.  The reason is that this is normal for men’s pants trousers to have a break or crush like this, but also so that when Christie is up on the platform sitting in a chair, he doesn’t want the pants to ride up half way to his calves.

OK – hopefully this gives you some ammunition on what a great pair of pants should look like and what to aim for.  Most of the time when you see pants in catalogues or online, the model is standing with her weight on one side or the other.  There will always be wrinkles this way.  So why is it that when we are trying on pants or making pants for ourselves that we thin they are not EVER supposed to have wrinkles, when we forgive it in a catalog or online store picture?   Some food for thought!  Be practical and be patient with yourself while you are fitting these.

I promise this is the end of pants….well, for a while!

closing

 

4 Comments
  1. Always like to read your insights. There can never be too many posts on well-fitting pants/trousers! Thanks1

  2. Yes its one of my pet peeves when i see pants will lots of folds on the back of the legs or pulling up from the front!!!!!!!!!!

    its hard to get it right but it can be done!!!!!!!!!!!

    but there is one thing that still escapes me some persons the pants fit perfect but once they sit they become very short, that one still i am trying to figure it out!!!!

    • Pat that does seem hard. But here’s the solution, and this is what each sewist gets to decide on his/her own. The pants have to be anchored well, if they aren’t anchored, they are going to be moving all over the place, especially when the wearer is up and down, sitting, stooping, bending over, walking. That’s why I like to see my students and clients walk and sit in their pants to make sure they are anchored. Now here’s the caveat on that. There is NO WAY not to have the pants move a little when you are sitting and stooping particularly, but you can have them move as little as possible – this means you have to allow ease for the pants to remain anchored.

      But what we all get to decide is if we want less movement (pants more anchored), that means we have more ease; if we are willing to have the pants have a little tightness to them when we sit or stoop, then we can have less ease. It’s a bargain, and each one of us gets to find just the perfect spot that’s good for us. I like a lot of each and do not like my pants to move off the waist too much, so when I sit down, the pants still get lower in back, but when I stand up, they pop right back into place. So anchoring is more important than ease for me. But I’ve had the exact opposite for clients and students and had some who wanted a little ease and a little movement – it’s all how you want to make them.

      But 1.) we didn’t pop out of our mother’s womb knowing this and 2.) we sure didn’t learn it by shopping in the cheap fashion stores……so now you know. You can have a choice, but the truth is that you can not have tight-fitting pants and have them securely anchored at the same time – well you can, but you will turn into a soprano real quick (if you know what I mean!!!! – They will be very tight in the upper inseam!) Unless they are knit or stretch…..but that a whole other subject!!!

  3. just echoing what donna said!!

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