The Savvy Sage of Sewing Stimulation

Why is this a good jacket pattern?

There are a number of things that are right about this jacket from BurdaStyle.

This is the basic pattern, and it does have a little younger cut, but it’s a cut that is classic enough that it works for a lot of different styles – ingenue and classic.

Why?

First, this has a lot of classic lines, but also it has some great seams that you can fit like a dream.  If you’re one of those folks who have to put in an FBA, then you can do this on that side front piece without hindering the line of the jacket and making it fit for you.

But there’s more to come…..

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Here I’ve taken this apart.  See that seam from the shoulder to the hem?…that puppy is a gem.  This is a seam that you can fit even the greatest difference between shoulder to bust to waist.  IOW if you have a Dolly Parton figure, this jacket is made for you.  How about a Dolly Parton figure with small shoulders – yep, this will work too.  What you do is alter along that front/side seam make the bust larger, the shoulder smaller, waist smaller or whatever you need.  And then in back you have the same seam to do all sorts of altering on.

If you’re making this for the first time, I wouldn’t try and get too technical on this and leave off the binding and leave out the vents in back – just make those seams – you can fit along those seams, but his will enable you to get this pattern down, and yet the pattern has enough variations (the binding and vents in back) that you can grow with it – that is, you can try some more technical details after you make the first one.

Remember my saying about things that bother you?……practice.  Go out and get 4 or 5 pieces of cotton twill, trigger, or some other basic jacket-weigh fabric, and make this jacket up about 4 or 5 times, and you will have a jacket down pat.

Not only that but you’ll have a great classic updated look for your wardrobe in all the colors and looks you want.  You can download the pattern here, or if you take the BurdaStyle Europe version, it’s in the new April, 2014 edition.

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8 Comments
  1. I looked at the jacket on the BurdaStyle site, and it says the jacket is for jersey fabric. Does that mean that it cannot be made from a woven fabric?

    • You know the title is confusing. “Jersey” may mean something a little different in Europe than it does here. When you look further down it says: Recommended Materials: Jacket fab­rics – which to me is NOT jersey or stretch or anything close to that. I’m thinking they think that this could be more like a boucle, which is a woven, but loosely woven, and if you’re making a jacket (which you are), it would need to be backed or stabilized (interfaced) in some way to make it work as a jacket. Boucle is used for the French Quilted Jacket like the Chanel jacket, but it is backed by quilting it to a tightly-woven but very limber (drape-y) silk charmeuse or even chiffon which gives the boucle stability. I should have mentioned that in the blog, but I just got so excited about the design, I forgot! Thanks for bringing it up.

  2. Thank you for the review and suggestions. I wish to purchase it now!

  3. I think they may mean Ponte.
    I looked at this pattern in the magazine – your article has clinched it – it’s my next make.

    • You may be right. A Ponte can work very well with woven patters.

  4. What are your thoughts on the Butterick pattern 4817? I am trying to get back into sewing and don’t want to try something that will discourage me or not be of use (to wear to work). It seems that this pattern would be a good skill builder. I could add some darts to the top and jacket. With my shape I doubt the skirt or pants would be a good idea.
    Your posts are to blame for my interest in getting back to making my own clothes. I don’t like cheap and can’t afford the “really good stuff”!

    Thank you!

    Judy

    • Judy – this is an excellent question. If you don’t mind I’m going to do this in my weekly email to members. This is free to join if you like and if you want off, it’s easy to unsubscribe. I do NOT want to be spam in anyone’s email box. But there’s a lot to deal with here and I think everyone would be interested. Thanks for asking, and I’m working on the email now, so it should be out in a couple of hours.

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