The Savvy Sage of Sewing Stimulation

And this is why I like Lagerfeld

Not only has he taken over the reigns of a fabulous smart and stylish maison in Paris, but he has continued the tradition year after year with witty, smart, fresh designs on the original model set up by Mme. Chanel.  That sounds like it would be a piece of cake, but it’s not.  Lagerfeld has had to keep the same tradition while bringing in new clients.  That’s very hard, especially in this day when couture is pretty much dying.

But the amazing couture collection for A/W 2014 is another wonderful collection.  I’m not Suzy Menkes, so I don’t have the sophistication of watching one collection after another, but I do know good design and the fit that good line can bring, and that’s why I love Lagerfeld’s touch.

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This jacket is typical of the great design.  The line of the collar/lapel/trim, hits right over the bust point and that means there’s a fit there.  I can easily see this on a much larger figure.  The collar line can means a fit across the bust, asn the side silhouette means a fit with a little higher waist, but gentle angle from the waist to the hip.  The lace inset is a nice accent to draw the attention up to the face.  For a more modest person a lining in white or nude behind the lace inset is perfectly fine and doesn’t destroy the whole look of this garment.  This design is so classic, yet fresh, but it’s something that will last for years.

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Probably due to my love of formal wear, this ornamentation is sort of a cross between the House of Lesage (which Chanel bought, but is a traditional house of beautiful custom embroidery in Paris) and the traditional Chanel trim.  Putting a dark background behind the embroidery makes it stand out even more.  This is a classic that layout artists use all the time, but done here looks absolutely totally striking.

This looks a little weird with the shorts under the skirt/dress under the jacket, but it’s the jacket that’s the real prize here…this can be done as a jacket over a dress, pants or skirt, and the jacket can be shortened or lengthened but the lines are so good and classic that they work beautifully.

And here’s another that I’m just a sucker for that high neck so couldn’t resist this.  Another one with classic lines.

Another with high neck but this wonderful panel in front…..at least it looks like a panel.  It could just as easy be another place for darts and fitting as it could be the end or beginning of a panel.  Another brilliant line design by Lagerfled.

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I just plainly love the lines of the trim on this jacket.  Again great lines, and easy to fit – the trim line goes right across the bust line making it a cinch to fit that area.  I’d probably be inspired to make the line a little longer and curve it toward the side seam and add a pocket at the bottom of the line.

These don’t look like much, but when you start taking them apart, and particularly when you start thinking of practical things like fitting shapes that wouldn’t be seen close to a runway model, you start realizing just how ingeniously brilliant and classic those lines are.

OK – sorry for the effusive drooling and ogling – I will hopefully return to containing my saliva in my mouth and stop the gaping looks!!!

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4 Comments
  1. I totally agree with your breakdown of the designs & the way the darts or shaping makes the garments so great …. but, I too don’t care for the shorts under the great jackets, and frankly, those hairstyles (or lack of them) really distract from some great designs. Maybe I’m too old to appreciate those hair-dos, but really, does anyone really think those are good looking?

    • No you’re not too old. They do this so they can get the attention of the fashion mag editors. And think about it. These editors have seen it all- to get their attention, designers have to do stuff that isn’t really sane or pretty – it’s outlandish and that’s what gets noticed!

  2. I agree with your love of his details. I also quite appreciate the strong shoulder line that balances out his more extreme hip shape. It is the line and detail that makes his clothes so drool worthy!

  3. Love your analysis, Claire!!! Thank you! Lolly

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