On Sunday I did a fun Periscope on Pants:
Just in case you didn’t get to see it, it’s here but here it is here too!!!
Honestly…just about the time I get things figured out tech-wise, they change. The site that “caught” all the Periscope vids and kept them went defunct…..boo! So I transferred them to YouTube, which hopefully will keep them up for a while!
So here’s the deal:
I talked about:
The Difference Between WOVEN and KNIT
Why this matters is that there is stretch in knit and woven is stable or doesn’t stretch. That means that you gotta have something else in there that’s going to give or you can’t move.
The early scandalous wearers of pants (Greta Garbo & Coco Chanel)…looked like this
And no one considered these pants baggy.
Now styles have changed, but that doesn’t mean that you have to have pants that are baggy. Trying to make your woven pants fit like stretch paints doesn’t work. Stretch pants are like apples and woven pants are like oranges – they are two different things, so the sewing techniques are two different balls of wax!
So if woven pants don’t have stretch -they need ease. Ease is not bagginess – ease has to be there so that you can move in the pants. But the pants do have to fit.
So here’s the four stages that I recommend (i you don’t like my way, you can go back to your way)
Here’s the thing – if you start out good, you have a good chance of getting a good muslin…..and that’s with the Hang and the Anchoring of the pant.
Hang is about if the pant hangs straight – you want it to hang straight from the widest part of your body, and not tilt front or back or be bowed (tilt inward) or splayed (tilt out). Once you have your hang, pin it to you (I wear a body suit or stockings when I’m fitting muslins).
Anchoring is about where lands or sits on your body. Stand, sit, stoop, walk, squat, and if you want even take them off and put them back on again. If they rest in the same place again and again, you’ve got them anchored well. If they are off as much as an inch, then they aren’t anchored. Now you can mark your waist and start fitting around the waist and above the hip, tummy and fanny apex points.
The Apex rule is one of my favs and something I’ve used for my clients that they don’t even know it. All they know is that they feel great, they look great, they are fashionable and look flattering.
Here’s the best example of this. I choose Christie cause he’s NOT svelt at all. Look how his pants fall STRAIGHT to the hem from the largest part of him – his waist.
Politicians and leaders are two of my favs to look for well-fitted clothing – these two have to look responsible, leader-like, capable and can’t look trendy or be unflatteringly (not sure that’s a word – but it is now) dress. And BOTH of them have their pants that fall straight to the hem from the widest part of their bodies -from their apex points to the hem is a straight line. PM Merkel’s hem is crushed cause she has on flats which is OK by me – that’s a standard in men’s clothing. Mrs. Clinton’s hem is straight no crush, but she has on heels which is exactly how this should be worn. If these people – who have professionals helping them carry off the look they want – have their pants fitting them, my bet is that so can you.
I can’t know the shape of each of you but I do know that we are all shaped alike. So even though you’re fitting the side seams and the inseams, don’t forget to fit the crotch seam too.
All of these crotch seams have the same depth (see the up and down, vertical, line – they hit at the same depth). But notice how much the horizontal line varies even though the crotch depth is the same. This just shows you how this seam can vary. You can have it so it’s high in front and low in back or the other way around; so it’s curvy in front but not in back or curvy in back and flat in front, or flat in front and back – it all depends upon your shape.
This makes my point. All the pants have the same shape on the outside (the outline on the very most left). But look at how all the crotch seams are shaped differently. And here’s the thing. These all have the same depth. Some are full in front, some are not, some are full in back some are not. They are all shaped differently. There are as many different crotch type shapes as there are sands on the beach. What’s your right shape? Start (and I mean start only) with the depth. You can measure that by sitting in a chair and measuring from your waist to the point at which your bottom touches the seat – best to do this in a hard seat. But remember that’s just the depth. To determine the rest, the best way is by fitting – and that means a lot, and I mean a lot of trying on and altering, trying on and altering, etc., till you get the fit you want. This also shows the terrific number of variations on this. I could sit here and tell you that you need this here and that there, but that would limit you and that’s not what I want to do. I want you to have the freedom to have what you want.
I like a high rise, and a low crotch. I have a sway back so my pattern looks really funny.
See doesn’t that look weird? But this is what I like – a low rise in front and a great big one in back. My fanny also droops – way more in back than it does in front. See how the crotch depth is NOT at the top of the inseam?…also see how much I pitch toward the back in my pelvis? This has a lot to do with the fit of my crotch seam, and it looks really REALLY weird, but guess what – this is what fits me, makes me feel so fabulous and what I love about my pants pattern.
OK there’s one last touchy area to alter that can be confusing. That’s the bottom of the crotch seam. It’s not the same as the top (which is either center front or center back). What does that mean? Well – if you want to add more in the hips, you have to leave the crotch depth the same (the bottom of the crotch seam), but you have to release the top of the crotch seam (center front or center back). This can get confusing cause it looks like if you release the whole seam you will have more room. Actually the bottom of the crotch seam will have less room if you release the seam. Yep, you heard me right. It’s the opposite of the top of the crotch seam. I know, it’s confusing. That’s why I mention it.
Here – this is what I mean:
The blue lines are the original pattern. The green lines are the new wider pattern. Notice how the bottom of the crotch seam is the same? That’s what I mean when you’re altering in the crotch area – which is the hip, upper thigh area. If you released that whole seam, you’re going to raise the crotch depth and therefore make a smaller space in the crotch. So don’t do it! Just FYI here.
OK – hopefully you’re off to your sewing space to make your own muslin. Here’s some words of encouragement from your Sage of Stylish Sewing Stimulater…..
It can be done!!! If you have questions, leave them here in the comments and I’ll answer – but most of all, I want you to know that all the time you spend on your pants is worth it. Well fitting, flattering, fashionable pants are a treasure. Now, here’s going to be the big problem: Your friends are all going to remark, “Oh well, it’s easy for you cause you’re a perfect size (fill in the blank)!!!!” Just say yes, and laugh about your own brilliance!!!
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