So what in the world does this mean? It means that sewing is a process. It’s like learning math – you must learn that 2 + 2 = 4 before you can learn that 4 x 4 = 16. It’s that simple. And yes a lot of people think math is hard, but if more folks would treat it like a process it would be a lot easier for folks to handle. I look at it as if this were a trip I’m taking. I have to travel from Albuquerque to Bakersfield, is easier to go through Gallup than it is to go through Philadelphia – you can do it, it’s just a long, round-about way to go. That’s exactly the way sewing is. You can insert the sleeve into the front and back, then sew up the shoulder and side seams, but it’s extra work that makes it harder.
So why is this helpful to know and even better why should we care? This goes toward good time management of your garment. And although a lot of us may feel that our most valuable resource is money, it’s really time. Time is irreplaceable – always. Money is replaceable, therefore time is your most valuable resource, so if you can cut the time it takes to make a garment, then it becomes more economical for you. It also grows to be a project that you will be more readily to repeat – IOW, if it takes you 3 hours to make a pair of leggings, then next time it will take you 2½ hours and the next time even shorter, till suddenly it takes less than an hour to cut and sew up a pair of leggings.
How do you get to that sort of time efficiency? Two ways: 1.) Making sure your process is in the most effective and 2.) and experience. That means that you layout and think about the process of assembly in such a way so as to maximize the use of your time, and you don’t sew the sleeve to the front and back before the sewing the shoulder. Although that’s a simple explanation, there are times when it’s not so simple until you begin to look carefully.
There are many ways to assemble this garment, but there is also one way that is time-efficient and much easier.
Here are the pieces numbered, and one thing that’s helpful to know is that the pieces are number in order or assembly. So instead of sewing #3 to #2 and then fitting in #1 into that corner, you sew #1 to #2, then #3 to #1 & 2. Then you sew #4, #5 and #6 together and sew all those pieces together to the upper side of #3. When you do that you basically have 3 pieces: the lower part (#1 & 2), the middle part (#3) and the upper right part (#4, 5 and 6) and sewing these three pieces together on either side of #3 is easy peasy, instead of trying to meet and match all those corners perfect.
Looking at the back, you essentially do the same thing, but since #4 has already been allotted a number as have #1 & 2, the order looks a little confusing. But it’s really not, in numerical order you do #1 & 2 first then #7 then attach #8 to #4 and attach that to the other side of #7 and you’re done.
This pattern makes my point in spades about how sewing is preeminently a process from one step to another.
Now take that to its logical conclusion, say you have a set of steps 52 steps long. The steps each one is explained in detail, but because it’s so much longer than Butterick 8267, it’s considered difficult. In reality, it isn’t. It may appear more complicated, especially if you look through the steps, but it more depends upon the detail and explanation of each step as to whether or not it’s hard or not. There are several sewing processes that fit into this category like the French quilted jacket – it appears hard and is considered the penultimate sewing challenge, however following the progression of steps, and suddenly you’re finished. The part that makes it look so hard is that there are many, many steps. They aren’t hard, but if you skip a few, then it becomes incredibly difficult. Another is a set-in sleeve. There are many steps, and taking them one at a time and the process becomes not only easy but understandable. Sometimes though in instructions, steps are missed, and for me what’s worse is that the reason for the step is completely disregarded or left out. This may sound like superfluous information but the fact is that when you understand the reason for the step, not only are you more likely to stay on track, but you begin to understand what the whole process is and how each step plays into that look.
I’ve been writing new products for the Resource Center and one of the things I go into detail on each step is the reason for the step as much as how to do the step. Sometimes those are the same and the one explains the other. Here’s an example. Altering an armscye is one of the most difficult things you can do – as a matter of fact, it’s really considered the most difficult alteration on the bodice pieces. When you know that, then you understand why most pros recommend you start with your shoulder measurement. Because when you do, the other alterations to make the chest, bust, waist bigger, smaller or different, are so much easier than altering that dang shoulder. Many alterations are made on one axis or another – like adding space to a skirt seam is adding on the up and down axis (usually that’s called the X-axis). While adding length to a pair of pants is altering along the side to side axis which is usually referred to as the Y-axis. But when you have a curve that is on both the X and Y axes, you usually don’t alter one but have to alter the other and this gets very confusing and very difficult to do. That’s why an FBA that alters on the Y-axis alone is so much easier than altering on both axes.
If the up and down (X-axes) is the blue line and the side to side (Y-axis) is the pink line, and the black line is the original armscye, then when you add space into the along the blue line, but not the pink line then where does the cur separate from the black line and where does it reconnect? It’s hard to tell, and this is exactly why this is so hard to do. Even if you don’t grasp this concept forever or even past your next breathe you understand that there’s a good reason for starting with your shoulder (or right underneath your chin/chest) measurement. This ensures that you don’t have to alter this dang thing which saves you a lot of time and effort – and you know how valuable I think your time is!
So when you see long instructions or many-stepped instructions, don’t shy away from them. Most often they are not only complete but taking it step-by-step means you are closer to success than something that takes only three easy steps! Well, it might take 3 easy steps, but the lesson does that by leaving out the other 30 in between!
Sewing in a step-by-step process is like traveling with a map that will help you get from Albuquerque to Bakersfield without having to go through Philadelphia, but you will get to see Gallup!
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