She recently did an interview at the Y (and when you are talking about that generally to places outside your local home, it usually means the 92nd Street Y in NYC, and if you’re in NY doing the rounds – after all the fabric stores aren’t open 24/7, I don’t know why….but alas they aren’t, then you gotta do something in the evenings, and the 92nd Street Y has to be on your kullcha list!!!).

Here’s a gal that looks like anything but fashion (that hair I have never figured out) and two Anna Wintours would fit in her bod, but she has a fabulous.  When I find a current video, I will post it here, so for now you’re just gonna hafta read about her – and when you do, you’ll find how really grounded she is.

There are two bits on this stint at the Y, the one, which is probably a bit more informative is here, and the other, is here, and wanted to include some quotes from her, from that second article.

Fern Mallis (the other gal in the photo who did the interview) was the director of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America – which is a very strong group of designers and do many fine things for the industry).

Here are some of her quotes from the interview:

On John Galliano’s troubles… It’s a tragedy. We know that creative people have all sorts of demons. I would never say that I love Hitler in any shape or form ever, and I don’t know many people who would. That’s not to say that somebody with such brilliant talent shouldn’t be given some kind of second chance. But how you do that is difficult.

I concur.  There is absolutely no excuse for his irrational and despicable comments.  At the same time it shows the terrific pressure these designers are under.  Think about having to create 6 minimum shows a year (RTW Fall, Couture Fall, Resort, RTW Spring, Spring Couture and Pre-Fall) and for each show there are 20 to 30 ensembles.  Each one has to be executed and thought out well and with a lot of creativity.  Plus this always has to be better than the last show as the business owners of the house and the bean-counters are standing right over the artist’s shoulder expecting financial results.  That may not always be possible in a creative environment….hence you have the pressure taking hold, and some folks do not deal with that well or at all, and turn to drugs or even suicide (Alexander McQueen).  This behavior (the addictive one) is not really a concern of the house as long as the designer keeps putting out the creative work, and therefore as the behavior and addiction becomes worse, the business folks aren’t really want to stop that flow of creativity to allow the designer to get some help, so until something like an outburst (or worse) happens, the poor designer is often caught in a spiraling loop that does not stop until it explodes.

For we regular folks it’s hard to understand.  I purchased the Sundance DVD (Signe Chanel) and have thoroughly enjoyed it and one of the things that is remarkably clear is that this man is no slouch.  He works incessantly to make sure that every garment that comes from Maison Chanel is impeccable and done with as much care and attention as he possibly can.  He’s been doing this a long time, and although Chanel has bean-counters and business types (and I don’t mean to make them out as the total villains in this), he has enough of a rep that he is better able to deal with them.

And Mr. Galliano does seem to be making ever effort to rehab his rep, and hopefully will be given the opportunity to do that.  Artists by their nature are eccentric, and he certainly is.  Karl is and in the DVD there are times when I wonder about the malarkey going on (every time he enters the maison, he has to be announced on each floor with a series of about 13 phone calls – that’s a bit much).  But the truth is that he is that good.

I traveled to NYC one time, for the sole purpose of seeing 7 operas in a weeks (which was a delight) and of course did some fabric shopping as well.  But the first night I saw with a lady (part of the opera group I was with) who had the worst whine and nasal in her voice I had ever heard and thought if I have to listen to this all week, I’ll DIE!!!  So I decided to find out about her and there might be something we could talk about.  I asked her where she was from, and she said Europe (I could tell from her accent – heavily Deutsch!)   Then asked her how in the world she got to Denver (she was from Denver and had come to hear opera as well), and she replied that she had come with Anna Freud and worked with her and the Blitzkrieg children.  Surprise!!!!  I never heard that whine again all week long and we became fast friends!!!!

But one night we had Wagner.  I didn’t want to go cause he is a notoriously antisemitic and anti-feminist, and turned to my new Jewish friend, Barbara, and asked her how could she go to listen to this horrible composer.  She simply replied: “He’s that good!”  Hmmmm….well if someone like Barbara who certainly has been wronged by the likes of Wagner-types, could like him, maybe I ought to give him a second look.  I did.  For my 50th birthday, with some other Jewish friends, we attended the Ring at the Met and it was spectacular.  Barbara was right – he’s IS that good!

I feel the same way about Galliano (and Karl).  They are that good.  Although there’s a lot of malarkey going on around them.  This doesn’t mean that it excuses his behavior.  It may to a small degree explain it, but it certainly doesn’t excuse it.  And hopefully with future therapy (which he is undergoing) and more reproachments to his rep, he will return and be forgiven.

On the state of European houses: Tragically, all of the big bosses never come to me. I am sure they go to Anna [Wintour] and ask her advice. I tell people what I think, and that is probably not what they want to hear. Fashion houses are like families. Yves Saint Laurent was absolutely built that way. People were treated like family and they felt like family. It isn’t like that anymore. It’s much tougher, not necessarily better or worse.

On going digital… It’s equivalent to the revolution and what a privilege to live in such an era. It’s a question of whether you use it intelligently. I try to train myself not to go home at midnight and start looking at my emails. I don’t always succeed. I have a Facebook page. I am not tweeting at the moment. During the collections, I am absolutely flat-out. It is very heavy. Heavy is the wrong word because I love it. But it is an enormous amount of work.

On working conditions in Bangladesh… There has to be a change in mindset by the consumer. It’s about saying there is something morally wrong about having a swimsuit or dress that costs the same as a cappuccino. I don’t think the answer is the Disney answer. To pull out would be a catastrophe because that’s the only industry they’ve got there.

And although this is not directed specifically to us, I do wish sewing was more available to everyone, because what this is, in my mind is a direct reflection of the effort (obsession even addiction) to the every nebulous goal of achieving yet a cheaper price for every contract, season and production contract that is made.  Pretty soon something has to break, and maybe this is the beginning of that break of the cheap fashion finally finding it’s breaking point where it is no longer feasible to go cheaper, less quality, less value and hitting “below zero”.  If more folks at least knew about sewing, then they would be so appalled by the quality of clothing available that the demand for this sort of cheap fashion would dry up.  And yet this is a source of income, the little that it is, for some of these women who are in such provincial (antiquated) societies that place women more as possessions rather than persons.

But that’s a subject for a whole other post!  For now we can revel in Ms Menkes words of wisdom!

So Punk doesn’t hold much interest even if it is couture (the title of the new Met exhibit is Punk: from Chaos to Couture), but I do like couture.  Why?  Because it is rich with creative ideas and problem solving techniques!

But onto the fashions caue they were fabulous

First we have to start out with the Diva who seems to do everything she can to promote that title:

This is a killer gown by Givenchy with boots to match!

This is couture to me….gobs and gobs of beautifully layered fabric that takes gobs and gobs of time.

Some folks didn’t like this but Dolce & Gabbana know how to bead, and for technical work, this is an incredible piece to see and get ideas from.

Another Givenchy piece, and this one can be zipped up all the way to the neck or worn like Ms. Mara does here – I’m left wondering if the fabric is stretch lace, or has been fitting within an inch of her body….I suspect stretch which brings all sorts of possibilities to your mind.   And notice the application of ruffles….don’t like them around your neck, but them on the shoulder or hem.

I loved this whole idea….it looks fabulously comfy (most off the shoulder gowns look like they are just a slight tug away from fall off the shoulder and therefore the whole torso), but also it had the metal sort of punk nod – and not too fond of punk, this is about as much of a nod as I want to give…..

except for…

Who always looks stunning (although I’m not a fan of those boots with that gown) who’s real nod to punk was….

Phillip Treacy fascinator or hat or whatever in the fashion of a mohawk hair do!

But for my money Zac Posen takes the prize in this elegant gown that shows all and ever error in execution, and all the design detail you can imagine.  This looks like a heavy-weight satin or peau de soie or something like that, but whatever it shows the great use he made of the grain detail (and the nap, which is what causes the differentiation in color on the bodice).  Uma looks so glamour-puss that it’s hard to tell who she is here.

Now I know a lot of this stuff is not pertaining to driving carpools or running to the grocery store or checking the mailbox or even just lounging around reading a good book, but there are some excellent ideas here….placement of prints and how to cut them out…..how to use nap to make things interesting (think about putting the yoke on a blouse or  the  front placket on the widthwise grain to get an interesting play in color on a blouse), and zippers, Givenchy’s zippers – what ideas there!

So here are some of my favs from the evening:

I thought Givenchy was the big winner of the evening – no one wears a dress better than Beyonce, and she really did her stuff, course this dress is a helluva a dress.  Just shows you how dramatic, classic and striking black and gold are.

Another stunning gown by Givenchy – would make a gorgeous wedding gown statement.

Here’s another view from the front (runway & red carpet), so you could actually wear this to a wedding and not have to unzip it down to here!

And although the other two Givenchy gowns were killer, this one has it’s own killer style with a print that is very rich.  Prints are incredibly hard to work with and can be a nightmare to tame.  Sometimes it’s just easier to let them scream out like this!

And then there’s Zac Posen

This guy is getting to be the king of killer gowns, this one is gorgeous

Look at the fitting darts and detail on this dress, and yet it’s so simple and classically designed…one wrong stitch and it will stand out like a neon sign.  I think sometimes we forget how beautifully executed some of these designs are when we are presented with such beautiful clothing.

For example, this Giles Deacon on Ms. Parker looks like just another print dress….but when you look further, think about cutting this puppy out.  There’s a distinct border, and this border has to hit just right for the hem.  There’s also a slit that has part of the border color up the front part of the slit.  Then it has to stand out just right, so that the hem is right.  As a matter of fact, the dress has to be cut out with the hem right – there’s no taking it up or you’ll ruin the hem print detail.  This is the kind of detail that gets whisked aside when you first see the gown.

Great look with lots of design and very classic presentation.

As much as I love class, I adore ornamentation, and this really took the cake.  This fabric is absolutely to die for.

These almost look as though they are painted petals attached to the netting.  Whatever, the detail is astounding.

Nothing like a grand dame in a grand dame gown!

These two gals have been a pleasant surprise for the fashion world.

Lots to ogle over and think about after a gala like this!

And then the 1949 version with Allan Ladd (somehow “Shane” just doesn’t make it as Jay Gatsby for me), but supposed to be the most authentic, even though it’s deep Film Noir feel.

Then the 70′s edition:

Hubba, hubba – now that’s a hunk!!!!  (Obviously this is the version for my generation!)

And finally the current version:

But the costumes are what’s fun to see here.  The 1920′s were filled with gorgeously beaded and detailed garments, but this is Miuccia Prada’s  and Catherine Martin’s interpretation of that, not so much a historical accuracy as much as reflection of the 1920′s.

And I think they did a good job.   And as much as I hate toying with historical accuracy (don’t get me started on JFK), in costumes (set decorations, music) all lend themselves to interpretations, and all the past versions have done it – not that everyone’s doing it makes it OK, it hopefully just makes it so that folks can relate better.

And although I’ve heard some of the soundtrack and I’m not sure rapping translates well to this subject (I would much rather have heard something like this from Ian Richardson’s version of Richard III), but I suppose this goes along with the theme that they didn’t seem to be or wanted to be constricted by historical accuracy here.

Basically the flapper 1920 style was just coming out of the Edwardian era of style which had just come out of the Victorian era of style.

Victorian

Edwardian

The point is that although women were beginning to wear looser, lesser constructed and less structured garments, nothing like the deep plunging neckline of the 2013 Gatsby was even remotely considered stylish…..it was more like:

For the day this sort of thing was terribly riské and almost indecent.   So that Prada & Martin would choose to update the look, really stands to reason.  Or else they would loose the whole idea of the shocking value of the style….in reality, no, there were no plunging necklines, but the plunging necklines that we see in today’s version, is an example of how shocking the style was back then.  I appreciate that, but there’s more to this…..

What they did have that we don’t even have anything close to is the detailed work involved in these gowns and Prada & Martin did themselves well here.

Beading is what we thinking of as being excruciatingly hard and time-consuming to do, but there’s also working with these really super fine fabrics that requires a practiced hand and skill.

This IS a statement necklace (again with current version of the 20′s style), but all the beautiful work in the dress reflects the style just as much as the bling.  Think about cutting out this dress (above) and how much fabric it would take and the workmanship to handle all this fabric so that it flows and moves effortlessly.

And the hats – or fascinators – are just as much fun.

But above all my fav thing about this time, was the stylized way shapes, lines and every day items were designed, mostly manifested in a Bauhaus-ish sort of way.

After all that ornamentation, here were the clean lines and style – that too was all part of the 1920′s, and for that part, I think the gals did a great job.

The costumes for this movie are to die for and if you’re around New York, some are on exhibit at the Prada store on Broadway starting tomorrow (Friday).  And if you are not familiar with couture type clothing, this will be an excellent treat to see these pieces up close.  I guarantee you, you will walk away changed, and probably with a gazillion ideas cooking in your head!

And although I’ve heard some of the soundtrack and I’m not sure rapping translates well to this version (I would much rather have heard something like this from Ian Richardson’s version of Richard III), but I suppose this goes along with the theme that they didn’t seem to be or wanted to be constricted by historical accuracy here.

But couldn’t let this pass for those of you that have been following the GBSB (aka Great British Sewing Bee)

Here’s the fourth edition and really it’s not surprised.  I think the most surprised was the winner….but I won’t give it away if you haven’t seen it.

But there were some things to take away from this whole series….

1. No cat fighting (a popular show without fighting?….what is the world coming to)

2. Very indicative of sewists and seamstresses and makers (my new fun word) – mostly a very pleasant group of folks – even supporting your competitors.

3. Where else could you get all the loosers together to congratulate the winner – what a lovely way to end.

But here‘s the fun part!!!  According to this article, there’s going to be another one – longer, bigger and let’s hope better – could it be!!!!

What fun!

My studio is at home and that means it’s convenient, but it’s also sort of a burden in that I’m known for coming in here in the middle of the night and working.  What’s the old saying about being your own boss?…..I get to choose which 18 hours a day I work!!!!  It’s funny, but true.  The other side is that it’s like being in a candy store in here, so although I work hard and long hours it’s fun!

But that does mean sometimes I’m in here in my pj’s and that can be a dress code that is a little easy to slip into.

Enter another cute little video from the proponent of Madame Chic!  And although this is geared toward new moms, it really pertains to all of us.

As I’m working my way through the tenants of Mme. Chic, who is not of new mom age, and yet she too adheres to the motto that we should all look presentable.

Back in the olden days this was all about grooming and it was the person who was well-groomed who really got the attention, and basically got ahead.  This person didn’t necessarily have to be the best looking or the most handsome;  he/she just had to be clean, well-kept and presentable or well-groomed.

This meant combed hair (or fixed), a modicum of make-up (for the girls), shirt tucked in (for the guys – remember this was a while back), socks pulled up, shoes tied and shined, slips not showing (for the gals), and all that sort of thing.

Today it can be an entirely different list such as a giving up of the grunge look, neatly put together (and something that unfortunately is rarely seen, but does add to one’s presentable looks is hems of pants that actually hit at the floor but do not drag the floor), clean appearance, and basically a purposeful effort made to put oneself together in a thoughtful way.  Even just the minor bit of effort can make a huge difference.

For we sewists, this goes in spades.  But there are things that we can do that put us ahead of the game here….for one is that we all know how to hem (or we should) and make use of it.  If you purchase a garment (pants or skirts/dresses) that require a little hemming, take the time to do it and do it well.  Just the very fact that your pants hitting the floor and not dragging the floor can make a huge difference in your appearance.

For me I’ve made the wonderful discovery of washed silk dupioni (this is with synthropol) and the silk comes out very much softer and more casual.  Additionally, it is washable.   But the fabric has a gentle class to it that makes it just a little dressier than just cotton or linen.  Not only do I look presentable, but a gracious style that is not formal but again is not casual.  And because I make it to fit and feel good on me, it is always comfy and working in my silk tops and pants makes me feel just that much more special all day long.

Now the simplest of tasks of entering the drive-in of the bank, or running in to the market for a quick trip, or even just an impromptu drop in client and suddenly I look together, well-kept, presentable and there is an immediate respect and deference to that person who is always well-groomed.

For a clear example of this – look at persons in constant contact with the media – politicians (say what you will, most of them look presentable at all times), news folks, and the ladies who anchor who wear a little jewelry, a bright colored dress or top look just a little more together and responsible than those who are wearing a simple shirt or top (I’m talking about the anchor, not on site of a war or something like that).  Additionally look at folks who want something from you – in stores – mostly they are uniformed.  In my market, they all wear green shirts with the store logo on them.  They are clean and look nice and presentable.  In Home Depot where working in your grubbies is a pastime, they all wear orange aprons with their name written on the apron.

The point is that even in casual environs, it is important for the company to project a good first imrpession, so too for folks in the media, and

Ms. Scott has some other excellent suggestions here, and then these are a few of my own….so here’s to always looking presentable (and enjoy the kudos that will start coming your way!!!!)

As usual – if you haven’t seen the show, watch it – it’s really great for any sewists or maker out there.

For me, this was the show that made the most sense, although I think it would have made a lot more sense had the judges had time to talk about their decisions, because they really were on target.

They had three competitions and although I thought the children’s outfits were a little simple-minded, the judges did ask for some techniques that should be in a sewist’s arsenal.  The French seam, shirring (in this case gathering on elastic) finishing details and the straps (bias straps, however they call rouleaux straps – as always the British version is way classier!  Rouleaux is French [duh!] for roll).

Sandra’s dress was like an ole pro who’s done this about a gazillion times before and totally practical, but alas, no points on practicality…there are specifications on this, and I’m sure they were there as part of a whole cadre of skills that the makers are being tested on.  The point that all the stripes are in line is great – this is a nightmare waiting to happen if you haven’t done it before and know what you’re doing. I loved Sandra’s technique of slipping the elastic on the bobbin, although it’s not “by the book” it worked beautifully and it was time-saving (the sign of an ole pro!)

Lauren pulled off a coup by these tiny little rouleaux/bias straps.

Although there’s a much easier way of doing this.

If you don’t have this set – get it.  It’s well worth the $$$.  It may appear a little pricy but you use it year after year, and it’s just well worth the money – it works.  Here‘s a little cheaper price without the handy box, but personally I like the box, cause it helps keep them all where I can find them.  I need all the organizational help I can get!!!

OK next is the dress -

I LOVED this competition, cause it was all about creativity and the execution of the idea.  In art class (and school) one of the things they teach you of course is to be creative, but along with that is the execution.  Jackson Pollock’s paintings, although they looked like a mish-mash of  messy paint splatters, was anything but….it was a careful application of line, point of interest, balance, light-dark, texture, and all the elements that make up a good work of art.  The same is true here – even the most creative idea is lost if the execution is badly done.  I know I always said I give points for creativity, and I do, but to be honest, the execution makes the difference between WalMart & Neiman Marcus.  And if you’re in the biz you want to sell at Neiman’s where you can charge a whole lot more and make a whole lot more (although there is money in selling the WalMart version, it’s just hap-hazard at best).  In the olden days, these mistakes were known as seconds and they could be had for pennies on the dollar, but they were not made well, but at least you knew it, which is not always true today!

Stuart gets A+ for creativity, but unfortunately, it’s lost in the translation from the thought to the garment.  This is so hard to realize in making (as the Brits would say).  You are translating something from an abstract few synapses in the brain to something that you can feel and touch and takes up space…..from a few chemical and electrical processes to something that is mass and takes up space that you can touch.  This is a very abstract concept and although some designers look like it’s a mistake,

…it’s really not.  This whole idea and garment is well thought-out.  On the left is the photo of the whole garment, while on the right is the detail.  That’s right….the whole animal print is all done in bugle beading….the whole dress.Now you get the idea of couture. Granted, on the GBSB they don’t have time to do anything like this.  But there is the challenge as well.  If you watch someone like Issac Mizrahi do something like this, he would come up with something totally creative, but well within the time allotted to complete the challenge. Part of that skill comes from doing it over and over, but also part of it comes from the creativity side – more on that later.  But I give Stuart A+ for creativity and F for execution.  Unfortunately they both go together like a cart and horse!

Ann had the right idea, but Sandra did it the right way.  To be honest, I’m not much on pleats or tucks like this, partly because doing all that left over fullness at the top or bottom of the tuck, doesn’t add that much to the dress.  (Also Ann’s waist is placed a little low for the styles right now), but Sandra’s shape and waist placement and dark execution is right on – classic done great.  The trim is meh, but it doesn’t take anything away and she did a great job executing it.  Personally I think Ann & Stuart need a co-transfusion…Ann needs some of Stuart’s creativity and Stuart needs some of Ann’s execution skills.

And to the main  event….the jacket:

This unfortunately isn’t Stuart’s forte – and it never has been, but I applaud him for picking out a jacket that was hopefully within his knowledge.  Ann’s jacket is just like her – this is something I would expect her to make and master.  Lauren’s jacket, to be honest, I was impressed, I didn’t know she had that in her, and Sandra’s jacket has great lines, unfortunately the execution is a mess.  This fabric actually needed to be backed or the lining quilted or otherwise attached to fabric (stitch-witchery or something like that).  It’s a shame, cause this jacket has great bones (Simplicity 1944).Stuart went home, but I don’t think that’s a shock to anyone.  Sandra has a problem with getting things finished, but to be honest, that really isn’t as bad a problem as poor execution.  Sandra needs to learn a little better how to gauge her time, and I’m sure what happens at home when she makes her kid’s outfits is that she may get behind, but she has the time to catch up.  And that’s Sandra’s world and that’s her real world.  In mine, sometimes I do have to figure out how much can I get done in a certain amount of time as I work on deadline scheduling.  Now I’m in business and Sandra isn’t.  This is the dilemma that a show like this has – they have to have parameters or else these folks will be there all night long.

So we have Sandra, Ann and Lauren left, and of Lauren and Ann – who do you think will win?

Recap:  Stuart gets A for creativity, Ann gets A for execution, Sandra gets A for pattern choice and Lauren gets A for holding back on just how well she sews!!!!!  Isn’t this fun!!!

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I’m as guilty of this as the next gal, but I really see this in my young brides and debs who strive so hard to be beautiful.  Every once in a while I get a gal who is enough self-aware and confident that, although she cares about her grooming, her looks aren’t the end all.  She is as much concerned about her looks on the inside.

And as I get older, the friends who really mature with grace are those that have the lines and sign of times on their face, but the light is still in their eyes and they are still not only very much alive inside, but joyful.  That doesn’t mean they don’t have heartache, pain, failure obstacles of all sorts and sizes.  It means that they have overcome them without carry the burden of bitterness, hatred, jealousy/envy, resentment, resignation, despair and hopelessness.

It is those who come through the “the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune” with their good humor, joy, light in their eyes and most of all hope in their hearts who are really beautiful.  You can see it in their eyes, hear it in their voices and feel in their words.

Here I am in the business of making folks look better – all on the surface, by fitting here, disguising this, accentuating that. It seems funny that this would mean so much to me.  But I can tell you that the biggest joy I get is when I see the expression on my client’s face when she sees herself in the mirror and sees that she is a beautiful person!

Mary Ann is a sweet former-deb and her sister was also one of my debs, who came to me a while back to do a quick weekend fit on a dress she was using for a presentation in Washington D. C. where she works.  They are lovely people, and to be honest I wasn’t really sure what this was for, but I’m love working with a lot of my past clients and they are so accommodating.

Soooooo – what should I do but hear from her that – guess what?  She’s the new Cherry Blossom Queen for 2013.  Here is more on the whole tradition, but more about the dress.

This was a straight forward dress, and I suggested because of time, that they find a good bones dress and I would make it work. This is a gamble, but I had a chat with Mom and she said that Mary Ann was pretty much the same size she was as a deb, so we didn’t have too many problems.  Naturally when I got the dress it was huge in the bust, well at least huge enough that it needed work, but not so much that it had to be completely revamped.  This meant a little taken in at the zip (I have to figure on time on this, so the fewer seams I touch the quicker the dress is done), and the most important thing is a waist band, which is NEVER (and yes, I’m screaming cause it’s so shocking that it’s never included) included in RTW is a waistband.

This is a fabulous little ditty that you attach to the boning and the waist band takes all the weight of the skirt (which is a minimum of 75% of the weight of the dress) off the bodice. IOW, the bodice boning doesn’t have to be so strong and the bodice fitting doesn’t have to be so tight to support the entire skirt (which in RTW, usually contains petticoats and all sorts of other paraphernalia that just adds additional weight).  It’s no wonder that girls in strapless dresses are running amok pulling up their dress every 5 seconds – although for me once is enough to throw me into a conniption fit!

For anyone out there planning on prom and NOT putting in a waist band – RTW or not – just don’t let me hear about it cause I’ll find out and come get cha’!!!!!  This is sooooo easy and works soooo well, there is virtually no excuse.  Albeit there is hand work involved this doesn’t mean that it’s the end of the world – just tack this to the boning at waist – pinning is a little tricky as you have to stick you hand it to feel the pin – which means you’re pinning the dress and whole waist – you’re PINNING….then release the pin to pin only the boning and the waistbanding.

I use 1″ thick Petersham ribbon, although there is an excellent waistbanding material out there by the roll, I prefer using Petersham….it’s all about doing it right the first time, but also about doing it right with the right materials.

Who knows – with your Petersham waistband – you too could be queen!!!!

There are so many thing I like about this – so don’t read on if you don’t like spoilers….. but here goes.

First the competition projects are totally reasonable and they are done in a reasonable amount of time – none of this making a ball gown in one day.  You actually can sew a pair of trousers in an afternoon, and add patch pockets to a skirt in one hour.

There were some surprises:  I don’t know what got into Ann, but for some reason I thought she would know better and she didn’t do well on the pockets nor the blouse – the blouse was actually frumpy, and even though some might consider me more the frumpy age, I do everything I can to fight it – maybe that’s because I’m just not frumpy and I don’t think anyone else should be.  My clients aren’t and if they tend that way, then I’m here to get them out of it fast!

And speaking of bad….the best line all night belonged to Patrick when Mark asked if someone came rushing toward him with that shirt and a sword, and Patrick remarked: “If someone came rushing toward me in that shirt with a sword, I would head straight for a bus!!!!”  What a hoot!

This is totally blah – nothing – what creativity is here is totally lost, and I know she had some fitting problems, and she did pretty good on solving those, unfortunately when she made the circumference too big, she also made the shoulder waist too big and it just doesn’t work.  This doesn’t work on a lot of levels (more later) and this is where I really disagreed with the judges cause this got some more favorable notices than I would have given it.OK – here’s a good time to talk about something serious.  Yes, part of what makes this not work is that the shoulder to waist measurement on the garment is to large;  this is causing the bodice to buckle around the waist; which therefore makes there look like more fullness around the waist;  which therefore makes the waist of the garment sit on the hip and not rest on the waist making her look like she has a muffin-top problem more than what she really has.  So the solution of taking out length from shoulder to waist would take out the wrinkles, but making it just a smidgen shorter would allow for a more gentler line from the side through the waist to the hip.  Sort of like this

You can tell where I’ve morphed, but you can see the point – or the bump!  On the left is the bump as on the original garment and on the right is that line “softened”, which is what I like to do.   All you have to do is bring your waistline up about 1″ and it just softens that line beautifully.   The reason I bring this up is a lot of times you can be sewing along and do a fitting and you will think something terrible is wrong when it just needs a little less fabric from the shoulder to the waist.  And right now we’re used to seeing a little thicker waist and no bump at the hip line rather than a tight to the waist fit and a bump at the hip line (like you see in so many of the Mad Men outfits).  For us a more modern look is this higher waist and smoother line through and to the hip.

And so why carry on, because yes technique and creativity are wonderful and valid and undeniable parts of a garment, but so is fit and making it fit so that you look good is a lot of the whole effort here.  I’m not sure they’ve put enough emphasis on this, but the series isn’t over yet.

Stop the presses – this is gorgeous!  (BTW, see the higher waist and gentler line to the hip and fanny – Sandra did this perfectly here.  It’s a McCalls 6467).  But the ruffle in front and back was beautiful and the whole blouse done out of this pattern was great.  Execution (and I’m not on the premises so I can’t see for certain) but from what I can tell on the lay of this, is great as well.  But the creativity and artistic design is special.It was time for Mark to go — he should have gone last week, but lucked out on the fit of his dress and they kept him.  And I was sorry to see Tilly go, because she had drafted a pattern and had to refit, unfortunately I’m not sure what sort of “advanced” knowledge the contestants had, but she didn’t finish and that has to count as a death knell for her longevity on the show.  I did love her blue & white polka-dots with the red accent.  Too bad she didn’t finish, cause it would have been a stunner blouse, and the judges had trouble as it is, they would have had further trouble.

Don’t you just love the way the Brits talk….and their quaint little expressions for stuff – like creatives aren’t artsy – they are makers.  It just sounds so much more legitimate.

Recap:  Ann goes down (for lack of creativity), Stuart goes way up and Sandra kicked a**!!!!  Stuart was most improved, Patrick wins the award for best line, and Mary Hart has competition for “perky” from Claudia Winkleman!!!!  Can’t wait to see what happens next week!!!