This is the way fashion used to be – pretty, flattering and I can’t wait to make some of these outfits and there’s a fabric in there that I want very much! Even the music was lushly exotic and full.
Enjoy!
This is the way fashion used to be – pretty, flattering and I can’t wait to make some of these outfits and there’s a fabric in there that I want very much! Even the music was lushly exotic and full.
Enjoy!
The models interest me more than the clothes. Female models must walk with one foot directly in front of the other, impossible except with thin legs and excellent balance. Male models walk normally.
Yeah, but things have been so awry for so many decades that this semblance of normalcy AND beauty struck me as being completely “new” looking. We’ve been in such an ugly funk for so long, that it’s become natural and normal not to expect anything attractive, positive and flattering from fashion. During the days that I trained to be a designer/dressmaker and during the first decades of me starting my company, fashion was so uplifting and enjoyable. Today so much of it seems to be centered on drumming a message of ugliness and mostly an “Emperor’s New Clothes” mentality, that I’ve been so thankful I could design and sew for myself so that I wasn’t a victim of the RTW mania to look ugly. This photo shows it best.
As a further note on this show, it’s interesting the comments from an article in the Business of Fashion which is behind a pay wall, but their take is interesting. Here are some of the comments from the article:
The part I find the most interesting/funniest or whatever is that last paragraph that Ralph doesn’t like fashion. And that’s true. What they fail to mention (or note) is that Lauren has always been an advocate of classic style. Louvet (the new CEO from Proctor & Gamble to head the Lauren business) has really nailed it with this comment:
What the bottom line here is that classic not only lasts, but it sells to the really wealthy. Why? Because it lasts. Lauren’s style is a Yellowstone Chic meets Ivy League Old Money – both styles are consumatly Americana and both styles last and last and last.
Why do we care – because this is a style that a 60 y/o can wear it as well as a 40 y/o!
[…] fashion designers really aren’t providing much inspiration like that. There are a few like Ralph Lauren, Zac Posen, and Jason Wu. The problem is that this short list of designers have their “street […]
Thanks for the show! I haven’t seen any kind of fashion show for years and nothing ever, like this one. Very dramatic and over the top in some designs but, most were wearable for anyone.
As for the models walk….not only foot placement in a straight line, as someone previously noted, but toe is placed forward and touches the floor first. It’s a tricky step to learn. I modeled locally in my teens, and wore a, then, size 10 and size 11 shoe. I was 5’9”. The size equivalent to size 6 now. Unfortunately my foot grew to a 12 by the time I bore 4 sons, 3 of whom were 8 1/2 lbs -9 lbs. Clothing size now is 12-14.
About your Ponte jacket class, what pattern are you using and are muslins made ahead of the class? Your fee is more than reasonable!
Thanks,
Marlette
Yes, I thought this show was particularly inspiring and had so many fine looks, I could use it as inspiration for a couple of years. But that’s what really fine, timeless clothing is all about – wearing it for decades.
The ponte jacket class. I love the Butterick classic pattern: 5926, which is still on sale here. I like this pattern cause it is specifically drafted for a stable knit fabric and it’s older which means it has more markings on it – you know like those old designer patterns from Vogue in the 70s and 80s. And no you don’t need a muslin. In the class I take your shoulder measurement, then we do the normal (FBA, etc.,) alterations to make it fit. The wonderful thing about this is that it is very forgiving and the jacket has give in all the right spots. Unless you are 3 or 4 sizes difference between your chest and shoulders, we shouldn’t need a muslin.
If you are set on doing a muslin, and I don’t want to discourage you from that, find a stable cheap knit (at Joann’s or someplace like that) with the same stretch percentage and use that as a muslin.
Stretch percentage: Take 4″ of your fabric widthwise grain – that’s important it needs to be the widthwise grain – and stretch to its comfortable limits. Not till when it tears, and not to within just before it tears, but to a comfortable limit. How much is that measurement? That should be the same measurement as the fashion fabric you’re going to use for the pattern. Stable knits come in a stretch percentage from about 15% to 30% and that’s a huge difference. Stable knits are characterized as being thicker and less stretchy than jersey or activewear. The percentage is figured thusly: if 4″ stretches to 5″, then minus out the 4″ and you have 1″. 1″ is 25% of 4″ and that’s the 25% stretch. So if the 4″ stretches to 4.66″ – that’s 15% stretch; if the 4″ stretches to 5.25″ that’s about 30% stretch. You can see that there’s a huge difference between 2/3″ stretch and 1 1/4″ stretch…that’s why it’s important to know your stretch %.
I did find the designs to be timeless and beautiful. Black, White, Cherry Red, silver, plaids, sparkles, FairIsle Knit, and asymmetrical shoulders and cut outs. I liked most of it. The mens’ wear seemed at times as though it would belong in Downton Abbey. The variety of jackets for men and women was outstanding. I noticed straight legged pants, as well as wider leg trousers. I loved the silver city line on the black sheath dress–stunning. The longer Jackets on the women–so sleek and classic. Thank you for posting this. Also it is interesting to see the marketing behind the brand. Make it exclusive enough so that only the few can own it. But, as you say, Claire, we who sew can make for ourselves and those we love without the baggage of being rich and exclusionary.